Oggi parliamo di Incrocio Bruni 54
an autochthonous white grape variety, practically exclusive to the Marche region (mainly cultivated in the central northern part of the region), but also authorized in Umbria and Tuscany.
What is Incrocio Bruni 54: in essence it is a hybrid obtained from cross-pollination between Verdicchio and Sauvignon, registered in 1971 in the National Register of Grape Varieties, edited by Cravit (center for research and experimentation in agriculture and viticulture).
But Incrocio Bruni 54 was already created around the mid-1930s by Professor Bruno Bruni, a distinguished agronomist from the Marche region of international fame, who was an official of the Ministry of Agriculture until 1950.
The aim of Prof. Bruni at that time was to harmonize the characteristics of the vines to be crossed, compensating with at least a part of the aromatic qualities of Sauvignon, the aromatic deficiencies of Verdicchio, without compromising the structure of Verdicchio; it was not an easy experimentation, so much so that the goal was reached at the 54th attempt, the name of the new vine depended on this fact.
Going to the characteristics, I can say this: the vine is early ripening, it requires special attention in the vineyard and in the cellar (so much so that in past years it was abandoned by winemakers, only to be rediscovered only in the last decades); particular attention because it is necessary to grasp the ideal ripening state of the grapes, so as to avoid an excess of green and unripe connotations that could occur in wines, and can also undergo easy oxidation, so that it would be preferable to operate in reduction in the cellar; according to the opinion of some producers personally interviewed, this vine would find its ideal habitat in high mountain pedoclimatic contexts, where this particular attention would be less necessary.
The wines obtained from Incrocio Bruni 54, except for the problems of maturation I have mentioned, are of good body, flavor and freshness, conferred by Verdicchio: they highlight white fruit, pomaceous, minerality; to these characters is added the aromatic endowment, more or less mitigated compared to the precursor, conferred by Sauvignon; this is a varietal trait, which is of a vegetable type, so we have tones reminiscent of nettle, tomato leaf, evergreen shrubs such as boxwood; aromatic characteristics due to the presence in the genetic heritage of the Sauvignon precursor, of particular nitrogenous substances that make its identity trait unmistakable, substances also present in other fruit and vegetable products such as asparagus, green pepper, peas: the so-called metoxypyrazines.
Moving beyond this somewhat technical aspect and going instead on combinations, I would certainly say to combine on seafood, preferably at the opening given the qualities of freshness, but also on fried food, crazy water fish, boiled crustaceans, scampi , mantis shrimp; personally experimented with success on octopus carpaccio with rocket and datterini tomatoes.
Going on the regulatory aspects and moving towards the conclusion, I would say that in wines with Typical Geographical Indication, therefore in Marche Igt, we can find on the label the citation of the vine primarily (therefore Marche Igt Incontro Bruni 54), however this is only allowed when the percentage of the vine is equal to or greater than 85%, but this is a general rule of the Typical Geographical Indication that applies to all varieties, not only for this.
In conclusion, I can say this: considering the area under vines at Incontro Bruni 54, equal to more or less 12 hectares in total throughout Italy, I think I can say that the wines obtained from this autochthonous vine are not easily available on the market, at obviously outside the Marche region; however I can say that despite this, the prices remain affordable, within the reach of all budgets, I do not think in fact that they exceed 15 euros in the most expensive ones.
I concluded here, this viticulture pill dedicated to the autochthonous, appointment at the next dates, goodbye.
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Tasting notes
(Incrocio Bruni 54 grape, label)
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